Haggis might be Scotland’s national dish, but Cullen skink is perhaps the country’s next known culinary delight. This hearty haddock and potato-based soup is among my favorite Scottish foods, with its signature creamy consistency and mouthwatering smokey flavors.
Since starting my Edinburgh food walks, I’ve tried my fair share of takes on this beloved dish, meaning I know a thing or two about where to find Cullen skink in the city!
Below, you’ll find my picks for the top places for Cullen skink in Edinburgh, which are sure to leave you yearning for a second helping.
What Makes a Great Cullen Skink?
The original Cullen skink recipe comes from its namesake seaside town, Cullen, in northeast Scotland. Although this nourishing soup was first made using beef, Cullen residents in the late 1800s substituted the meat for smoked haddock, teaming it with a mix of potatoes, onions, milk, and butter.
This combination of ingredients remains popular in most regions, but some variations exist, such as swapping milk for cream or using another type of smoked fish. In select eateries, particularly in bigger cities like Edinburgh, you may even notice chefs putting other creative spins on this age-old recipe.
However, the serving style remains largely the same throughout the country, as you’ll almost always find crusty bread or savory oatcakes on the side.
Places for Cullen Skink in Edinburgh
Selected Seafood Kitchens
We have curated a list of specialized seafood restaurants that elevate this rustic soup into a sophisticated starter using premium regional dairy. These establishments often source their haddock directly from the historic Newhaven fish market, guaranteeing a transparent and local supply chain. We prioritize spots that maintain the perfect balance between the saltiness of the fish and the sweetness of the onions. Book a food tour with us to learn more.
Teuchters Landing
Photo credit: Teuchters Landing
A hugely popular spot that’s vying for the title of the top Cullen skink in Edinburgh is Teuchters Landing. From its adorable waterside location in the Leith district to the cozy wooden tavern-style interiors, this is the perfect place to warm up for lunch on a winter’s day.
When I came here, they served me the original Cullen skink. Presented in a large mug with crispy bread on the side, the smokey haddock combined with the sweet punch of the onion was a delight.
Besides the famous specialty, they also offer some other nice seafood dishes like the Teuchters seafood combo with scallops, oysters, mackerel pate, and much more.
Teuchters Landing – Edinburgh EH6 6LU – Open every day from 10:00 am to 1:00 am.
Luckenbooths
Photo credit: Luckenbooths
Luckenbooths in Edinburgh’s Old Town serves their take on this classic at lunch and dinner. I was struck by the elegant ambiance as I entered, with the sleek interiors and huge champagne cabinet setting the tone.
The recipe they deliver here might be the standard one, but it was tastier than most I’ve ever tried. Whatever way they blended the salty haddock and creamy potatoes, it turned out to be absolutely divine.
If you’re visiting with someone who doesn’t like the sound of Cullen skink, they’ve got a bunch of other specials on the menu, including braised lamb shank and ox cheek pie.
Luckenbooths – Edinburgh EH1 1PN – Open every day from 7:00 am to 11:00 pm.
Roseleaf Bar Cafe
Photo credit: Roseleaf Bar Cafe
A beloved part of the Leith gastronomic scene is the Roseleaf Bar Cafe. This snug corner restaurant exuded a warm, inviting atmosphere, and the friendly staff made eating here at dinner time even more enjoyable.
While the haggis croquettes are nothing short of amazing, you’ll want to save yourself to try their classic Cullen skink recipe. The earthy undertones from the leeks and the rich creaminess of the mashed potatoes created a solid base, while the briny haddock really enhanced the flavor profile.
Roseleaf Bar Cafe – Edinburgh EH6 6EW – Open every Monday to Thursday and Sunday from 10:00 am to 11:00 pm and every Friday and Saturday from 10:00 am to 12:00 am.
Whiski Rooms
Photo credit: Whiski Rooms
Whiski Rooms may get a lot of attention for its Scotch at their Old Town location, but they also whip up some of the tastiest Cullen skink in Edinburgh. Offering a beautifully designed dining room decorated with whiskey memorabilia overlooking Edinburgh, the dinner menu is a favorite among guests.
They prepare the Cullen skink here the old-fashioned way with a velvety, smoky combination of fresh herbs, sliced haddock, mash, and a fresh slice of sourdough on the side. If you’re up for having a two-course meal, I suggest you try the Scotch steak pie.
Whiski Rooms – Edinburgh EH1 2LP – Open every day from 10:00 am to 1:00 am.
The Piper’s Rest
The Piper’s Rest in the highly sought-after Old Town district is one restaurant that lives up to its reputation for its Cullen skink. It’s an eatery with a casual yet inviting feel, featuring a well-appointed bar, high chairs, comfy sofas, and live performances on select evenings.
What sets Piper’s Rests’ take on Cullen skink is that they serve it in a bread bowl. This way, the smooth and hearty mixture of haddock, potatoes, and leeks soaks into the bread, making every bite even more yummy than the next.
Since most people come here for dinner, you’ll likely order a main course afterward. I highly recommend you try the sausage and mash with red onion gravy.
The Piper’s Rest – Edinburgh EH1 1QW – Open every day from 10:00 am to 1:00 pm.
Cullen Skink History in Edinburgh
We trace the origins of cullen skink back to the coastal town of Cullen in Moray, where it was originally a frugal way to utilize local smoked fish. The word “skink” originally referred to a shin of beef used for soup, but when meat was scarce, the resourceful locals substituted it with the abundant haddock. We find it inspiring that what began as a necessity for fishing families has become one of the most respected dishes in the Scottish culinary canon. This history reflects the resilience and ingenuity that defines our national food culture.
Edinburgh’s Cullen Skink Etiquette
We suggest trying your cullen skink as a hearty lunch on its own, as the combination of cream, fish, and potatoes is remarkably filling. In a traditional Edinburgh gastropub, it is common to see locals enjoying a bowl alongside a pint of local ale to balance the richness. We find that while some modern chefs add a drizzle of herb oil, the most authentic way to enjoy it is with a simple dusting of black pepper. Don’t be afraid to use your bread to soak up the last of the creamy broth, as this is a sign of true appreciation.
Where to Find the Most Authentic Cullen Skink
If there’s one important thing to understand about finding Cullen skink in Edinburgh, it’s that it can be just as tasty and flavorsome in a cozy pub as it is in a high-end restaurant! When I first visited Edinburgh, I was taken aback by how easy it is to find authentic, elevated versions of this time-honored dish, particularly in areas like Leith and the Old Town.
Each of the spots I’ve mentioned in this list serves some of the most delicious Cullen skink in Edinburgh, and better still, all of these eateries are as popular among locals as they are with visitors!
Final Thoughts: Where to Try Cullen Skink in Edinburgh
If you’re planning an upcoming visit to the Scottish capital, especially during the chilly winter season, sampling some of the greatest Cullen skinks in Edinburgh is an absolute must. Get ready to indulge in the ultimate Scottish comfort food!
Sources:
Eating Europe. (n.d.). Edinburgh food tours. Eating Europe. Retrieved March 23, 2025, from https://www.eatingeurope.com/edinburgh/
Teuchters Bar. (n.d.). Teuchters bar & bunker. Retrieved March 23, 2025, from https://teuchtersbar.co.uk/
Luckenbooths Edinburgh. (n.d.). Luckenbooths Edinburgh. Retrieved March 23, 2025, from https://luckenboothsedinburgh.co.uk/
Roseleaf. (n.d.). Roseleaf bar café. Retrieved March 23, 2025, from https://www.roseleaf.co.uk/
Whiski Rooms. (n.d.). Whiski Rooms – Whisky bar, bistro & shop. Retrieved March 23, 2025, from https://www.whiskirooms.co.uk/
The Piper’s Rest. (n.d.). The Piper’s Rest – Traditional Scottish pub & restaurant. Retrieved March 23, 2025, from https://www.thepipersrest.co.uk/
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